Moores Bouldering

I went out to the Corridor at Moore's Wall today at did some bouldering by myself. My trusty climbing partner was out sick, so rather than let the day go by, I decided to go out and try some safe/moderate problems and maybe put in some work on the harder projects I intend to send there too. The trip started out poorly, it rained /sleeted on the way there, which worried me, luckily though the boulders were dry when I got to the corridor. It was probably about 40 degrees there all day long, so that was pretty nice. Cold , but not too cold. I met a few guys out there and managed to put in some work on the Pit v5 and v3p0 while they were around. When they left the area, I sent v3p0 with 1 pad and no spotters on about my 8th attempt at the problem.

First of all, I will say that v3p0 is probably about a v3 or so, even though it is a pretty hard v3, but that difficulty is mostly due to the beta intensive nature of the problem. So here is my beta: Start double pinch with a left heel hook. Go out right to jug, go left to jug, work right foot up and maintain body tension to keep from swinging when you release the heel hook to reposition your left foot. Right hand up to the good edge on the lip of the problem. Right heel hook around the right side of the boulder, left hand up to the sideways hold next to your right hand. Work feet up, grab fin and top out. Very beta intensive, hard to onsight probably. The holds are too good to really be a v4, but it is the trickiest v3 I've been on thus far. Pulling the top of v3p0 without a spotter was a mindscrew to be sure. Going bouldering by yourself is a great way to really get you focused on not falling off and on doing the right moves...of course if you blow it you can get really hurt really quickly. v3p0 was pretty safe but topping out still gave me a huge rush and for a few minutes after my send I just sat on top of the boulder and just enjoyed the great sensation of having overcome a challenge that I really had to mentally work for.

I also did another problem, which I cannot identify but I will grade roughly v3 as well, which is the farthest right problem on the masterlock wall next to v3p0. Here is my beta: Start on good sidepull rail with a good left foot, right foot flagging. Go up left to jug rail, match right hand. Good foot out left and make a big move to a crimp jug with right hand, cross left hand up to jug and topout.

I made some good progress on the top section of Lost Boys v5 and I think with the right beta for the start I will be able to send it my next few tries. Very stout problem, much like most of North Carolina's boulderin that I have encountered. I also tried the Pit v5 but I had poor beta and couldnt figure out the sequence. There is a left exit that looks easier, that might be what it is.

Bouldering at Moore's is incredibly frustrating without good beta. If you want to just boulder around and not bother with problems then I guess it would be fine, but for someone trying to do established problems with specific sequences it is a nightmare.

In other news, I think I am going to start my anaerobic training phase soon and switch over to doing sport routes as my emphasis for a while.