Sunday, November 23, 2008

Climbing Withdrawl

Its been 6 days since I last climbed, the longest I have gone without climbing since I got somewhat serious about it in February. I'd been meaning to take a week off as per advice from climbing trainers like Eric Horst so I would be able to heal up and recover from any unknown injuries I might be slowly building up, but I just never got around to it. On Wednesday I got pretty sick and I've been slowly recovering ever since, and its been a rough few days.
Without climbing I've been playing a lot of World of Warcraft's new expansion, the Wrath of the Lich King, and I have to say that its a poor substitute for climbing. It is addictive I will give it that and I have logged more hours playing that game this last week than I would really like to admit. The prospect of continuing to play that game for sustained amounts of time does not appeal to me at the moment. I will say that the storyline and the quests I've done in the game have been pretty compelling and I have had a good amount of fun and a few cool moments.
In other news, I think its safe to say that winter is officially here in North Carolina so the winter season for bouldering has officially started. As mentioned previously I have a lot of goals that I want to achieve this season and the prospect of getting out there and attempting them is both exciting and a bit daunting. Mostly its daunting because I just took 6 days off of climbing and I am unsure how much gains I have lost and how long it will take me to get it all back and then get strong enough to send some of my tough projects. I am optimistic and I dont really think that I have lost a measurable amount of strength. With the proper focus and training I think I can easily be climbing stronger than ever in about a week's time.

So, now that I have had a week of rest, today will be a light climbing day to gauge how ready to climb I am, and then next week I will start a training block of finger strength training, focusing on training max contact strength and really working on grip strength in my weak areas - pinches and slopers.
Here's what I'll be doing:
- Fingerboard Repeaters
- Campus Laddering
- Hard Bouldering
- One Armed Lockoffs

I am going to be focusing almost exclusively on these exercises for the next 3 weeks and then I am going to do a 3 week block of anaerobic power conditioning where I will focus on doing:
- 4x4 Bouldering or Medium Intensity Boulder Intervals
- Frenchies
- Getting retarded-pumped and maintaining that for as long as possible during my climbing sessions.

Right now I am planning on doing a 3 day a week climbing program with a 2 day break at the end of the week. I love climbing after 2 days off because I am so well rested and I climb so much harder. Before this break I was contemplating doing some heavy weight training + climbing and doing that with 2 day breaks between each session, but I think I will wait a bit before doing that again since I feel like I might have been on the road to injury.

Currently I have a very subtle injury around my left bicep, it feels like my brachialis or something because its on the medial side. Because of this, I am going to try to refrain from doing crazy shit that will probably result in more injury until I feel like it is completely healed.
So its about 50-55 degrees out right now, so perfect for bouldering.....I really cant wait to get strong and get some free time/money to go and try some of my projects.

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